Natural cosmetics: what is ISO 16128?

Today's consumers are increasingly concerned about their cosmetics' environmental impact and composition. Therefore, the notion of naturalness has become a key criterion in guiding their decisions.

However, it's not always easy to know exactly what you're dealing with, and the definition of natural ingredients can vary. The international standard ISO 16128 has been developed to eliminate this grey area and standardize the notion of "natural."

This article sheds light on the objectives of ISO 16128 and its scope, impact, and limitations for the cosmetics industry. 

The context and objectives of ISO 16128

A desire to harmonize definitions on an international scale

Previously, the different definitions and interpretations of naturalness in the cosmetics industry could confuse consumers.

The development of ISO 16128 by the International Organization for Standardization (ISO) is a response to this problem. Experts from 40 countries established a universal reference for defining the naturalness percentage of cosmetic products. It focuses on classifying ingredients and their origin (natural, organic, processed, etc.) without imposing environmental criteria.

Thanks to a standardized base, ISO 16128 aims to define a clear and coherent framework for manufacturers and meet consumer expectations regarding authenticity.

Composition of ISO 16128: two complementary parts

The standard is structured in two parts:
The first part of ISO 16128-1 distinguishes and defines several categories of cosmetic ingredients: natural, of natural origin, organic, and of organic origin.

Natural or organic ingredients: what's the difference?

An ingredient is natural if obtained solely from plants, microorganisms, minerals, or animals. It is organic when it comes from organic farming methods or wild harvesting.

ISO 16128-2 provides a complementary methodological framework for calculating indices: natural, of natural origin, biological, or of biological origin. You can find the second part of the standard for more details on calculation methods by clicking here.

The impact of ISO 16128 on the market

ISO16 128 standard: who's concerned?

ISO 16128 is primarily aimed at cosmetics manufacturers and laboratories wishing to assess the naturalness of their products in a standardized way. It covers both :

• Large companies targeting a variety of international markets
• SMEs and emerging companies looking to enhance the value of their approach.

For these players, the standard is invaluable for complying with internationally recognized standards.

Raw materials suppliers play a key role in implementing the standard. By providing precise data on the origin and processing of their ingredients, they facilitate the calculation of naturalness indices by cosmetics companies.

A strategic tool for meeting consumer expectations

The adoption of ISO 16128 represents a turning point for cosmetics companies where demand for "clean," environmentally friendly products is growing rapidly.

• See also: Clean Beauty: what is it and how do you develop "green" cosmetics?

Today, consumers aspire to use effective, natural cosmetics with a reduced environmental impact. The standard makes it possible to meet these expectations by quantifying the proportion of natural and organic ingredients in a formula.
Brands can rely on precise, standardized naturalness indices to support their efforts. In this way, ISO 16128 aims to establish a climate of trust between brands and consumers while supporting the cosmetics sector with consistent practices.

Limits to consider

The differences between standards and labels

To fully understand the distinction between ISO 16128 and labels, it is important to note that they have neither the same role nor the same objectives. The standard can be seen as a "methodology" for classifying ingredients and calculating naturalness indices. At the same time, labels are guarantees based on strict specifications and controls (proportion of organic ingredients, manufacturing processes, traceability, etc.).

The ISO 16128 standard provides guidelines for classifying ingredients but does not replace certifications or lay down rules for product communication and labeling. As the FEBEA (Fédération des Enterprises de la beauté) points out, "this standard is not intended to pronounce on product claims, nor to be a label." Its role is to harmonize and standardize definitions to create a common framework while providing a methodology for calculating the proportion of "natural" or "organic."

A product can, therefore, contain organic or natural ingredients without being certified "organic" according to labels that impose additional requirements. The ISO16128 standard does not allow a company to label its product with the "organic" logo, but it can mention the percentage of natural or organic products it contains.

Marketing and greenwashing

Companies' use of ISO 16128 for marketing purposes raises several questions, not least the risk of greenwashing. This practice consists of misleading consumers by exaggerating a product's ecological qualities.

As mentioned above, the standard does not govern marketing claims or product labeling. Nor does it guarantee that specific manufacturing processes are environmentally friendly, that packaging is sustainable, or that products are free from controversial ingredients. This gives brands a great deal of freedom in communicating, but it can lead to ambiguous communication practices. For example, a product may boast a good percentage of natural ingredients but also contain substances such as silicone or paraben or use processes that are not very environmentally friendly.

Thanks to ISO 16128, brands can display precise percentages of natural or organic ingredients, such as "80% natural". Although these figures are technically correct, they can be misleading. For example, a company may state that its product contains 80% natural ingredients, with no restriction on the ingredients present in the rest of the formula. In other words, a product can include a high percentage of natural ingredients while including controversial ingredients, such as silicone, without contradicting the standard. Certifications help to avoid this pitfall by imposing stricter criteria.

No control bodies or blacklisted ingredients

The role of the standard, which differs from that of labels, is not to impose restrictions. It, therefore, does not prohibit certain ingredients, such as parabens, phenoxyethanol, or other controversial substances. Their inclusion in products claiming a high percentage of naturalness could mislead consumers.

What's more, the standard does not provide for third-party verification. For example, the percentages declared on product packaging are based on information provided by suppliers who declare raw materials' origin and transformation processes. Still, no system is in place to guarantee the accuracy of these declarations. 

Therefore, it is preferable for brands to be transparent and clearly explain what the percentages displayed mean to maintain a climate of trust with their customers.

Best practices for finding the most natural products

With so many cosmetic products on our shelves, it can be difficult to distinguish between genuinely natural ones and those that only appear to be. To make the best choice, several best practices help consumers find out more.

See the INCI list

Firstly, the Cosmébio Association recommends paying close attention to the INCI list (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients). Mandatory on all packaging, it details the composition of cosmetic products. It's an essential source of information for making up your own mind, even if it can be intimidating at first!

Ingredients are listed in descending order, with those listed first being in the largest quantity. If a product claims a natural composition, but natural ingredients only appear at the end of the list, beware!

Relying on labels and certifications

Recognized labels such as Cosmos or Natrue offer solid guarantees to make it easier to identify natural or organic products. They impose, for example, minimum proportions of organic ingredients in the absence of controversial ingredients (silicone, parabens, etc.) and independently conduct audits to guarantee product conformity.

Aiming for certified products is a good way to gain peace of mind, as these labels are not limited to composition but also assess processes and ecological impact.

Beware of vague claims

Some terms, such as "green" or "clean," are not regulated. Make sure they are accompanied by concrete evidence to back up these statements.

Visit trusted retailers

Some stores or e-commerce sites select brands that meet specific naturalness, transparency, and ethics criteria. For example, major retailers such as Sephora and its "Clean at Sephora" conditions, Credo, or the EWG organization impose their rules and help consumers avoid the pitfalls of greenwashing by directing their choices toward products that meet precise requirements.

Using applications to make decoding easier

Apps such as Yuka and INCI Beauty allow you to quickly analyze the composition of products by scanning their barcodes. They provide a handy aid for identifying natural or, conversely, controversial ingredients.

ISO 16128 and cosmetics laboratories: how PLM can help you

In addition to labels, adopting ISO 16128 provides the cosmetics industry with a reference framework for standardizing definitions and calculations relating to product naturalness. By integrating the best practices associated with this standard, companies can optimize their formulation processes while meeting consumers' growing expectations for natural products.

PLM for efficient data centralization and management

One of the challenges of implementing ISO 16128 is to have accurate, up-to-date data on each ingredient. This includes their origin and degree of processing, for example. In addition to this information, laboratories must manage many technical and regulatory documents, such as the Product Information File, while ensuring that formulas comply with regulations.
This is where PLM (Product Lifecycle Management) software comes in! Its functions enable you to :

• Create and manage a centralized ingredient database with the information needed to comply with ISO 16128
• Automate low-value-added tasks (such as generating ingredient lists) to focus on more strategic elements
• Guarantee complete traceability at every stage, from the selection of raw materials to the product's introduction on the market.

Coptis Lab is specially designed for laboratories, with tools for better management of raw materials and more dynamic collaboration between all departments. It enables them to optimize their formulas and accelerate product development while ensuring the naturalness of their products. With Coptis Lab, it is possible to manage formulation projects according to COSMOS or ISO16128 standards. Would you like to find out more? Request a free demo today.